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Post by tommydp on Oct 15, 2015 19:23:07 GMT
Hi Chris and Dave!
Yes, removed all visible rust, zinc primer, paint and Tectyl. Looks very good. Top of tank and towbar painted with glossy Hammerite:-)
Yes, I'm using the distributor overhauled by DD as I wanted to check its opertation before possibly using in the blue one which is about to receive (yet another..) reconditioned engine.
You may recall I sent the distributor back, as I was certain it over advanced. It did in deed, so DD changed/ adjusted the advance springs. He could not explain what had happened. I also pointed out I found it strange the point gap was different across the foru cam lobes and reckoned this gave the wavering dwell reading and unstable timing mark. Back then I also pointed out that the timing was different on cylinder one and four. So, got it back and DD confirmed the dwell was spot on.
The advance is now fine it seems, but the points gap issue and dwell wawering is still the same. It wasn't until I noticed the pinking when pulling the trailer I realised that cylinder 4 was firing earlier btdc than cylinder 1. In other words like it was before I sent it back. To overcome this I fitted the electronic set to this distributor, as I reckon the advance curve is fine at least. This gave stable timing marks and less difference between the cylinders (less than two degrees). At least it seems that the ignition is more accurate with electrics than with points. On a fresh rebuild I would not have expected that difference between points and electronic ignition.
Regarding the slack, I can in deed feel movement if I grab the rotor end of the distributor shaft and try to move it sideways. If the points are open when doing this I can see the points gap open significantly when I press the shaft sideways. Not the way it should be I think.
I'm not sure how to adress this further. I'm not questioning his skills and reputation, that's why I went for an overhaul in the first place. Sadly, it hasn't turned out the way I wanted, that I didn't have to think of distributors again after fitting it:-)
Using the 45 d on the blue one, which has no noticable slack in the shaft.
Tommy
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Post by dave1800 on Oct 16, 2015 2:07:23 GMT
Hi Tommy
That's quite dsappointing about the distributor. Maybe you should consider trying to find a replacement bush to remove the play. As you could vary the opening of the c-b by rocking the shaft - that means the timing is changing too. Without the side thrust of the heel of the c-b I really don't know if the shaft may rock or resonate at certain rpm or whether it may only do so outside the normal engine rpm range. If it did, you would probably suffer timing jitter with the magnet / hall device as well as the critical setting is the distance from the rotating magnets to the hall pickup. That is why when hall effects sensors were used by VW etc (Bosch distributors) they used a rotating shutter arrangement that gave precise switching and was unaffected by bearing /bush wear. Not sure why these aftermarket devices moved away from the priciple that is well established and recommended by the major hall device manufacturers that I have seen in their application notes. Cost I guess, but I imagine it is only marginal. Worth checking through the rev range with your timing light. Jitter at idle not a big issue but at high rom could be a problem.
Regards
David
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Post by tommydp on Jan 8, 2016 21:07:11 GMT
Hi all! Quite cold here lately, between minus 10 and 20 the last week. No salt on the roads, so use the 1800 every day. We had minus 20 this morning. The 1800 has no room in the garage and it doesn't have an engine heater. Starts first time anyway, and works very well in deed:-) Ideally I should have had an 88 degrees thermostat fitted, but the interior keeps quite comfortable with the standard thermostat, too. The grille muff helps a bit. A few pictures and a movie to make you freeze:-) Regards, Tommy      |
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 9, 2016 1:00:16 GMT
Sounds good - trucking along nicely.
Chris.
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Post by andrewa on Jan 9, 2016 9:01:33 GMT
Excellent T - thanks for posting!
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Post by dave1800 on Jan 10, 2016 1:59:02 GMT
Do you have any problems with door locks / handles or doors freezing to the sealing rubbers? Surprisingly this used to be an issue with my Saabs if left outside in temperatures well below freezing. Perhaps there is not so much humidity as in the UK?
We think it is cold here now with early morning temps of +20C !! The locals are putting coats on their dogs (and some cats!).
regards
David
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Post by tommydp on Feb 23, 2016 11:27:39 GMT
Took the 1800 to town yesterday, and once warm I noticed something was not allright. It stalled at traffic lights and hesitated a bit. It was quite cold, so I turned the carb a flat down which improved things a bit. Found it strange though, as it's been far colder and the miture has been fine for ages.
I decided to take the dashpot and piston off the carb, and yes the screw holding the needle had come loose and the needle was down quite a bit. This carb has the biased needle. I believe this arrangement is more likely to come loose. At least that's my experience. All in all, a logical fault, so no big deal.
It's all back together now, and works fine again. Worth checking if you have stalling and hesitation or if you open the carb for other reasons. I remember I've got a service bulletin somewhere which says to use some thread lock on this screw.
T
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Post by dave1800 on Feb 26, 2016 6:37:05 GMT
Hi Tommy I must admit I never liked the biased needle. It was supposed to give more even emissions and more accurate fuelling, but the idea of the needle rubbing gainst the jet just seems wrong. I would suspect that the resulting ovality would actually lead to higher emissions and poor running after a while necessitating the replacement of the needle and jet. The older style where the needle doesn't touch the jet, indeed you take care to centre it to ensure there is no contact throughout the piston travel, is IMOH preferable. I changed to the older style needle on both my Mk111 cars (and never had a needle come loose!). regards David and yes the screw holding the needle had come loose and the needle was down quite a bit. This carb has the biased needle. I believe this arrangement is more likely to come loose. At least that's my experience. All in all, a logical fault, so no big deal. T |
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Post by tommydp on Feb 26, 2016 12:47:12 GMT
I agree, Dave. I prefer the fixed needle. It seems strange with a needle rubbing against the jet all the time.
This was a NOS carb, so I left it as it was. I will change the jet and needle for a fixed type later. I've never put a fixed needle to a piston meant for a biased one. I guess I'll need an adaptor of some kind. I would like to keep the dashpot and piston, which have seen very little use.
Tommy
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Post by dave1800 on Feb 27, 2016 1:21:16 GMT
Hi Tommy Yes the adaptor is available from Burlen and it enables SU users to take advantage of the much wider range of fixed needles. You do need to centre the jet after changing adaptor to convert biased to fixed needleDavid I will change the jet and needle for a fixed type later. I've never put a fixed needle to a piston meant for a biased one. I guess I'll need an adaptor of some kind. I would like to keep the dashpot and piston, which have seen very little use. Tommy |
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Post by tommydp on Feb 27, 2016 18:12:04 GMT
Thank you Dave!
I wasn't aware of the adaptor. It's running so well now, so not touching it. I'll look into it later though.
I'll get another jet and jet bearing too, as it's not adjustable to centre the jet now.
The 1800 has been out and about today too. The whole family of four went skiing, and it's the only car we have a ski rack for at present:-)
Tommy.
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Post by dave1800 on Feb 28, 2016 1:33:03 GMT
Yes, you would need to change the jet too as I'm sure both will wear evetually and as you say you would need to be able to centre it. I've been trying to understand the physics of the difference between the two type of needle: jet which relate to a varying size of annular (unbiased needle) or C shaped orifice. The profile of the biased needle in Mk111 cars is slightly weaker at the lower end but fairly similar under moderate to heavy acceleration at higher rpm. My experience with a range of Mk11 and Mk111 cars before I changed them from biased needles was that there was no discernible difference is fuel consumption. It would have been interesting to compare the emissions. Hope you enjoyd the skiing! regards David Thank you Dave! I wasn't aware of the adaptor. It's running so well now, so not touching it. I'll look into it later though. I'll get another jet and jet bearing too, as it's not adjustable to centre the jet now. The 1800 has been out and about today too. The whole family of four went skiing, and it's the only car we have a ski rack for at present:-) Tommy. |
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Post by tommydp on Mar 24, 2016 17:56:05 GMT
The 1800 is the only car we have a ski rack for, so it has taken us to the mountains and back for the Easter holiday. Around 300 kms. No problem:-) Tommy  |
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