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Post by dave1800 on Dec 25, 2010 1:07:33 GMT
I am curious about your 123 ignition. Are you going to use (have) the "tune" version that allows you to set your own map or perhaps one sold for the MGB with a dozen or so inbuilt curves? I have built a unit that was featured in an electronics magazine in 2009 that you can programme in a similar manner - all I need now is the car to fit it in!
regards
David
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 25, 2010 1:35:59 GMT
The 123 has (IIRC) up to 16 pre-programmed settings to let you choose the one which suits your car and driving style the best. The MGB unit is the one for our cars (Unless you have a Six, although I *think* a six pot one is now available) - after all, we had the five bearing engine first ;D.
I went the simpler (and cheaper) route of the Simon unit on my 25D dizzy. Remove points and condenser, screw on unit and forget all about it. Both systems rely on you getting the base timing setting about right, taking into account that we're all now runnng on unleaded fuel.
Chris.
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Post by kelsham on Dec 25, 2010 10:55:26 GMT
What do you set the base timing of the distributor too?
Regards Kels.
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 25, 2010 11:11:58 GMT
Standard setting is 16 degrees BTDC. With unleaded fuel you need to retard it a little further - mine's set at about 19 degrees BTDC.
Chris.
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Dec 25, 2010 14:13:40 GMT
On the 123 you align the timing marks then turn the dizzy. When the timing is correct an LED alluminates. It is so simple. I have used map 'A' (1-9 & A-E). To change it there is a dial under the unit - all very easy. the Piper 270 cam should make it fun.
If you did not n know the 'S' has the tuned head as standard - large valves, twin valve springs & slight flowing. All this and 2 HS6s. MGB owners tend to be envious.
Other difference is that the 'S' has a mechanical fuel pump and extra engine support.
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Post by dave1800 on Dec 26, 2010 2:32:48 GMT
There is a new version of the 123 ignition that you plug into your laptop and it allows you to set the ignition timing to your own choice, ideal for setting up on a rolling road. I can provide details if anyone is interested.
A word of caution to anyone moving away from standard curves (which you need to do if using a hotter cam for example) do be careful of knock, especially with the 1800S head as this was designed for 5 star fuel. It is possible to build a simple knock detector to give you a visual warning as damage can occur without you being aware until too late especially with higher compression and tuned engines in general.
Chris, if I am reading your post correctly, you are running more advance (19 degrees) on unleaded fuel, am I reading this right, you did say retarded so maybe a typo?
regards
David
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 26, 2010 11:44:11 GMT
You are correct - 3 degrees the other way..... = 13.
(Does my head in, timing does.
Chris.)
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Post by dave1800 on Dec 26, 2010 12:29:44 GMT
Correct ignition timing is often overlooked or its importance misunderstood . With the considerable changes to the fuel since that available when the 1800s were designed, the mechanical standard distributor is even more of a compromise than ever. However, many 1800s are now driven fairly gently so the risk of damage is fairly low if the original static (preferably stroboscopic) setting are used, and retarded until any traces of knock disappear under heavy load such as climbing a steep gradient in a high gear. However, if you are regularly driving hard or modifying the engine, a programmable ignition offers the opportunity to reduce the risk of engine damage while giving better performance and fuel economy.
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wolseley1800
Member
Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Jan 4, 2011 21:44:34 GMT
You know when you do a long term restoration and move in the middle you expect to loose some small bits, well I've lost the boot lid. Newly spreyed as well.
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Post by Penguin45 on Jan 5, 2011 0:48:27 GMT
Come on.... You know where it was and you know where you are now - there's a path to track back here. Mind you, Dad has lost entire cars (more than once!) before now........ Chris.
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wolseley1800
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Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Jan 5, 2011 7:48:37 GMT
Usual problem, I've put it some where safe
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wolseley1800
Member
Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Jun 1, 2011 19:51:14 GMT
Found the lid on the back seat under a sheet and front seats.
Had to fit an electric pump cos the cam has no pump lobe. Nearly ready for the mot but still lots to do.
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wolseley1800
Member
Posts: 127
Attribute: The Voice of Doom!
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Post by wolseley1800 on Nov 7, 2011 22:29:13 GMT
Been slack since I was last here but now got me backside in gear. Spent this weekend trying to find a short on the dash. When I turned the side lights on the green indicator lights can on. Indicators still worked but wrong way round. When i took of the indicators earths the dash lights went out BUT the indicators worked but on 1 light . After 2 days of checking connections etc. I found the problem when I lent on the steering wheel. Just a bad earth on the column. While the dash was off I fitted block connections to tidy things up. Will post photos later
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Post by dave1800 on Jul 18, 2013 3:52:36 GMT
HAPPY BIRTHDAY! We're still waiting for the photos regards David While the dash was off I fitted block connections to tidy things up. Will post photos later
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