crabmaster
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Post by crabmaster on Oct 10, 2014 10:43:56 GMT
Here's an article on it that appeared in Wheels Magazine (Australia) May 1967. Note the price. Attachments:
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crabmaster
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Post by crabmaster on May 26, 2014 6:13:09 GMT
Sorry for my brief suggestion. To elaborate:
The vent hole in cap presents quite a restriction to suction from the pump. Everything vents through that hole, there is no separate vent pipe to the exterior. Hopefully the problem is just a matter of the vent closing up and causing the fuel pump to gasp for something to pump through.
Tony
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crabmaster
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Post by crabmaster on May 25, 2014 12:23:24 GMT
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crabmaster
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Post by crabmaster on May 25, 2014 11:17:14 GMT
I can now report back on my newly acquired brake bleeding suction device - purchased at great cost (about $100), but "guaranteed" to work according to the box. Well, I am impressed. What happens is that one attaches a rubber fitting to the bleeder nipple, which is unscrewed about 1/4 turn. A plastic pipe goes into the rubber fitting, and the other end into a pot, at the top of which is a nozzle a bit like a spray gun. Compressed air (from your air compressor) goes through the nozzle, creating a vacuum in the pot underneath, and brake fluid is drawn via a venturi effect through the tube and into the pot. As expected, considerable air comes along for the ride through the threads of the nipple, but the great advantage is that the process is quite slow. The handle that controls the air flow can be clicked into the open position, and so one just sets it going, and then somewhat leisurely checks the master cylinder level - topping up as desired, while the fluid is drawn through. If different coloured fluid is used, then it is possible to determine when the new fluid gets through the system. The whole thing took about 20 minutes and I didn't spill a drop, nor did the managing director of this establishment have to be diverted from other important duties. No doubt this will pay for itself in about 20 years.
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crabmaster
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Post by crabmaster on May 25, 2014 11:06:10 GMT
I'm not sure what happened to my previous post on this topic so apologies if this is repeated.
My suggestion: try driving the car with the petrol flap open.
Tony
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crabmaster
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Post by crabmaster on May 18, 2014 8:57:55 GMT
Te = Standard ratio Remote Control Gearbox all speed synchromesh
I don't have an interpretation for Rf, but R isn't necessarily related to the gearbox.
Tony
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crabmaster
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Post by crabmaster on Feb 27, 2014 12:39:54 GMT
For many years, I have persuaded my wife to be the unwilling helper referred to above: with the first question of proceedings being which pedal is the brakes. Then I tried the tube with a spring loaded ball valve at the end, which worked fine the first time, but then the valve deteriorated because I didn't clean it thoroughly after use and it leaked. Then I purchased one of those pressure units that fit to the tyre, and found that none of the supplied caps fitted my (Australian) PBR master cylinder and so had to sacrifice a spare cap by drilling a hole in it for the pressure tube - but unfortunately the slightest leak in all this meant that the cap filled up with fluid, the top of which is well above the rim of the reservoir for an air space and rubber diaphragm, and so upon removal brake fluid poured out everywhere. I've now just purchased a suck-through unit which promises a quick and easy fuss-free experience. But, it relies on one loosening the bleeder nipple, and then attaching the hose - but I wonder what stops air leaking in around the loosened nipple and causing bubbles to appear in the hose. Will attempt to report back once I've tried it. Tony
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crabmaster
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Post by crabmaster on Feb 16, 2014 12:37:45 GMT
Australian-built 1800 MKI had to have the rear parcel shelf modified to meet out seat belt standards. Tests were done on a UK-built body (the first-off sample that was sent from UK to Australia so it happens - they ended up using it for seat belt structural tests) and a support piece was added. The image below shows the support piece part HYA4505. For the test car, it was pop-riveted on to the underneath part of the parcel shelf. In Production, it was spot welded.  The metal work is bent because this photo was taken after the test - a load of 2800 lbs applied for 30 seconds applied 17 degrees from the horizontal. Tony |
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crabmaster
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Post by crabmaster on Feb 9, 2014 9:58:42 GMT
Just a slightly off-topic comment in relation to the perceived colour of a car. In the late 1950's, the MD of BMC Australia had the Colour Committee tested (they being predominantly men) and it was found that most of the men were colour blind. BMC standards of the day stipulated that the Colour Committee had responsibility for: Vehicle paint colour and in the case of duotone, matching colours and breakup. Vehicle trim, including material used, material colour and colour comb1nations where duotone has been specified. Finalization of badge colour, and periodic revision to paint colours, trim and colour combinations etc. The two women on the committee must have had a most frustrating time of it.
Tony
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crabmaster
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Post by crabmaster on Jan 19, 2014 10:12:44 GMT
I've looked through the Australian magazine articles I have with the following results:
Moderm Motor, Feb 1968
" Don't let me put you off. In an 8500· mile three·week test trip over some of the best and worst roads in Australia,
that was the one and only time the 1800 looked like stopping. For the rest of those 8500 miles I was blessing, not cursing, Mr. Issigonis. His creation may look like a giant land crab, but it has the room and comfort of a super.limousine, the handling and point-to-point speed of a rally car. "
Wheels June 1968
"Body styling is the giant land crab variety, and could not be called handsome. Hawever, the 1800 has many compensating habits."
Tony
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crabmaster
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Post by crabmaster on Jan 17, 2014 6:32:47 GMT
I believe the intention of the oil level was to provide a bit of lubrication of the damper centre rod (the reservoir) in the bore of the suction chamber but I've noticed various workshop manuals show it above, and sometimes below, the level of the top of the reservoir. I think David is probably describing the way most of us set the level: Just fill it up and let the excess come out the top breather hole with the piston pushed up to maximum height, and there you are...
Like many, I've struggled with different oils to use, but if you've had a chance to read my last newsletter, I found that the original "SU" oil from Burlen and is surprisingly thick compared to commonly used oils like auto tranmission fluid, Singer sewing machine oil, etc.
Tony
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crabmaster
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Post by crabmaster on Jan 17, 2014 6:24:20 GMT
For those interested in the Australian manufacture of 1800's and other BMC cars and trucks, the new BMC-Leyland Australia Heritage Group web site is now active at www.bmclaheritage.org.au. This Group comprises some hundreds of ex-employees and interested people whose mission is to essentially "keep the memories alive". Alas, the number of ex-employees still alive is steadily decreasing and a lot of original documents and photos have been donated to the Group and as a consequence. I am sure you will find this web site interesting. The similarity in style between it and the austineighteenhundred.com.au site is no accident. One of the more interesting documents which has come to light is an explanation of the BMC part numbering system. A summary of the logic behind this can be found in an article by Peter Davis on both the above web sites. A comprehensive treatment of vehicle identification plates as fitted to Australian 1800's is now underway and explains what all those YJBBR and other codes mean. Regards Tony |
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crabmaster
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Post by crabmaster on Jan 2, 2014 10:42:28 GMT
Holiday repairs: It is high summer in the southern hemisphere now and holiday season - just the time to take care of a few jobs on the 1800 that have slipped during the winter. Some readers will know that I had occasion to have some work done to my cylinder head recently, and I was very happy with the new valves and guides - I had also handed over the rocker gear to the enginer reconditioners with the expectation that they would have a look at these parts and let me know if anything needed attention. But alas, I was asking too much. After reinstalling my engine, I had a lot of trouble setting the valve clearances at the rocker arms. Close inspection with the engine running revealed a lot of oil coming out from the bush on one of the rocker arms. There was nothing for it but to disturb the head nuts yet again and have a look at the rocker gear. Here's what I found:
I am sure you would agree that the above isn't pretty, and does indeed require some attention - and more than just turning things around by 180 degrees. No doubt the hardening had all disappeared and wear was quite rapid.
I found that a new rocker shaft was quite inexpensive ($28) at a local MG spare parts place, and they even had rocker bushes as well ($4.50 ea). However, there was some difficulty with the new bushes. The rocker arms have a metal plug in the end (called a rivet in the parts book) where a drilling is made through into the bush to allow oil to come through to the ball end of the adjustment screw. The new bushes had no oil holes. I was reluctant to fiddle with the existing plugs without the proper replacements, and so seeing my dilemma, the MG Parts manager very kindly tool pity on me and gave me eight new rocker arms complete with the bushes already installed for the price of the bushes. I think he must have seen that I had driven an hour to get to this place and faced another hour to go home in 35 C temperatures. Of course one could drill the bushes and attempt to install them in the right position, but I suspect no matter how hard one tries, the holes will not align properly.
So, after installation of all these new items, I can report that the clearances are now easily set and the noise from the valve gear considerably reduced. So, this is probably something worth checking if you have the opportunity.
Tony
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crabmaster
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Post by crabmaster on Nov 27, 2013 12:53:47 GMT
There's more to these distributors than you might usually think. The high voltage is negative in polarity with respect to the vehicle ground. The sparking action between the rotor and the outer terminals erodes the metal on the terminals if the polarity is correct (i.e. CB and SW leads are wired correctly at the coil) and so wear is more evenly distributed compared to the case if the polarity was the other way - in which case the rotor button would wear more rapidly. Lucas claim that the extended electrode of the rotor button i.e. extending in the direction of rotation) prevents back running of the engine by cutting off the spark should things start turning the other way. I guess this might happen during running on (where the engine often turns backwards for a few revolutions after turning the ignition off. Should you turn the ignition back on during running on condition, then things could get nasty.
Tony
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crabmaster
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Post by crabmaster on Nov 21, 2013 19:24:30 GMT
Interestingly the MGB (chrome bumper) has the same pulley as the 1800 - Part No 12H963. The later MGB has part number 12H3515 which is the same dimensions, but with the timing mark in another place so that it can be read from the top rather than the bottom. But, I suppose there's nothing to stop one putting a mark in the former position. If so, then lining up the keyways on both pulleys and scribing a mark is probably the best way to locate the correct position of the mark.
When I first looked at the old pulley, I thought it was in good condition - until I touched it.
Tony
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