|
Post by indianajones on Nov 5, 2012 23:16:18 GMT
Cheers for the post Dave, gives me something to think about.
You are correct, John (nz3litre) did make an offer on some HS6's, but I just think I should decide what I want to do before I get them etc, as I might not need/want them.
Short term I see myself doing more town/local motorway driving than I do any serious long stuff, but down the line I will hopefully have a ADO16, mini, Allegro etc for town stuff and the crab for long business and family trips. Of course it's not all about the MPG and it would be nice to have a put more 'go' on the open road.
But saying that I might take part in the 'Great British car rally' early next year, which is being organised by the British high commission.
-Andrew
|
|
|
Post by nz3litre on Nov 7, 2012 21:54:14 GMT
Hi Andrew,
Offer still stands should you need them.
Cheers John.
|
|
|
Post by indianajones on Nov 7, 2012 22:22:49 GMT
Cheers John,
Do they have a manifold and linkages?
-Andrew
|
|
|
Post by indianajones on Jan 28, 2013 5:06:00 GMT
Some work done at last, granted not much. Took off the engine mounts and made a start on separating the transmission from the block. Removed the clutch plate cover and the idler gear Hopefully I'll get the rest of it done soon. -Andrew
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Jan 28, 2013 14:07:28 GMT
Andrew Remember to remove the fork rod retaining plate and laygear thrust springs when you remove the adaptor plate - and put them back when rebuilding. The springs are tiny and can go astray (voice of experience)! Regards David Some work done at last, granted not much. Took off the engine mounts and made a start on separating the transmission from the block. Removed the clutch plate cover and the idler gear Hopefully I'll get the rest of it done soon. -Andrew
|
|
|
Post by Penguin45 on Jan 28, 2013 18:57:34 GMT
That'll be these little blighters, then. Chris.
|
|
|
Post by tommydp on Jan 28, 2013 23:39:26 GMT
And don't start hitting the clutch housing when you think you've removed all the nuts and it won't come off, because you have forgotten the one nut hidden deep inside...
Also, from experience:-)
Tommy
|
|
|
Post by indianajones on Jan 29, 2013 4:34:18 GMT
Cheers lads _b
On the note of hitting casings off, I was a bit nervous when I couldn't move the clutch housing cover, so I made sure I removed all the bolts and nuts as per the manual, all she needed with a slight tap with a thin edged tool and a hammer and she popped off.
-Andrew
|
|
|
Post by indianajones on Feb 6, 2013 6:25:39 GMT
It's our national holiday today so I've been busy again with the engine. Got the first motion drive gear nut off, the nut looked like that before I got to it, so figured I'd just use a grip on it, might need a new one. Had removed all the bolts on the clutch housing plate last time so all I need to do was remove the 'secret' hidden nut next to the first motion drive gear. Then I tried to remove it.....nope......so then I used a block of wood and a mallet......slowly saw a gap open up.....then I gave up with that and got a flat head screw driver in there to help open it up more..........got it opened up around 7-8mm all around before I gave up and got the old man to help. With his help, along with the prying bar, she popped off! I'm hoping we didn't damage the faces too much, but simply couldn't see any other way to get it off. I guess that's what gaskets are for! I then removed the clutch. Day was getting on a bit so I left it there. Will hopefully finish the job on Saturday, but we'll see, I might be a bit busy. -Andrew
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Feb 6, 2013 8:11:25 GMT
Good idea to try and get a new 1st motion shaft nut and a socket to fit. I recall there were two different nut sizes and had to buy two sockets over the years which was a pain. They need to be done up really tight 150ft/lbs so you need to lock the engine - I used to engage 2 gears to do this and I always used thread locking compound having had one nut come loose shortly after I bought a car and it started eating it's way through the casing so filling the engine, filter, gearbox and oil ways with powdered aluminium - no fun at all and a massive job to sort out. The only symptom was powdered aluminium on the dipstick, no unusual noises. It was a little unfortunate you had to use a metal lever to separate the housing, next time persevere with the rubber mallet and wooden block - it will shift eventually if you work all the way round releasing the crud. If there is any damage you will need to ensure the surfaces are really flat with no high points, don't try and rely on the gasket to smooth things out. Not a major disaster so don't panic. Hopefully any damage is up high and not near the gear oil sump. Well done! regards David
|
|
|
Post by indianajones on Feb 6, 2013 9:28:17 GMT
Cheers for the advice mate. Regarding the cover and the 'high points', if there were any, how would I smooth them out?
And good call on the locktight on the nuts etc, don't really want to be taking the engine out after all that work!
I'll take some more photos of the clutch, just to see what sort of condition you lads think it's in, I'm still gonna toss a new one in regardless though, no point going through all this hassle to do it half-arsed.
-Andrew
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Feb 6, 2013 12:08:39 GMT
Maybe post some close up photos of the damage would help. If there are deep gouges you may even need to start using a fine flat file, but otherwise emery cloth wrapped around a smooth block of wood (or one of those rubber rubbing blocks that hold wet and dry paper). Use the finest grade that works and finish with a very fine cloth /paper. I would wait for others to make suggestions, I'm sure we've all encountered this whether of our own making or not. Regards David Cheers for the advice mate. Regarding the cover and the 'high points', if there were any, how would I smooth them out? -Andrew
|
|
|
Post by Penguin45 on Feb 6, 2013 19:37:57 GMT
All looks (and sounds) familiar.......
I used a paint scraper to break the seal on the various housings.
Chris.
|
|
|
Post by indianajones on Feb 8, 2013 2:41:20 GMT
Yea I used one of those to get the first cover off.
Must remember to get some decent photos of the cover and adaptor plate for you guys.
Also one question, what's the best way to 'lock' the flywheel so I can remove the nuts on it?
Cheers,
Andrew
|
|
|
Post by dave1800 on Feb 8, 2013 4:04:31 GMT
I used to use an old large flat blade screwdriver to jam the teeth of the flywheel against the block where the starter motor fits. With a bit of practice you can load it up in place by rotating the flywheel and then undo the bolts without needing an assistant. Same procedure for tightening again. Regards David Yea I used one of those to get the first cover off. Also one question, what's the best way to 'lock' the flywheel so I can remove the nuts on it? Cheers, Andrew
|
|