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Post by Nick RS on Aug 20, 2014 17:53:24 GMT
OK, so car now back from the repairers and fixed. It's probably lucky that I had the complete part from gear lever selectors though to gearbox selectors if that makes sense with all the cables attached. They swapped the whole ting over though they had to do quite a bit of fettling with the cables to make it all work. The picture below shows the failed unit from the old cables. I'll get round to calling Tony and see if I can get a replacement cable to fix this unit before it goes back in the spares department. The fixed cable set-up feels exactly the same as it did before so there was really no warning sign that could have alerted me. MOT is looming in a couple of weeks so I will do whatever is needed get through that and then I think I'm going to sell. Not because of this recent incident but because I've always preferred the Austin and Morris versions and I really want something that is a lot closer to standard spec than this one. Nick
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 21, 2014 9:50:50 GMT
Nick, thanks for the excellent photos. Good to see the problem was outside the gearbox. I'm sure this will be helpful for anyone suffering the same issue even though there were no early warning signs it is comforting to know the solution doesn't involve a major rebuild. regards David OK, so car now back from the repairers and fixed. It's probably lucky that I had the complete part from gear lever selectors though to gearbox selectors if that makes sense with all the cables attached. They swapped the whole ting over though they had to do quite a bit of fettling with the cables to make it all work. The picture below shows the failed unit from the old cables. I'll get round to calling Tony and see if I can get a replacement cable to fix this unit before it goes back in the spares department. The fixed cable set-up feels exactly the same as it did before so there was really no warning sign that could have alerted me. MOT is looming in a couple of weeks so I will do whatever is needed get through that and then I think I'm going to sell. Not because of this recent incident but because I've always preferred the Austin and Morris versions and I really want something that is a lot closer to standard spec than this one. Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Aug 29, 2014 16:33:43 GMT
The annual rite of passage was successful today. One fresh MOT ticket into September 2015. Looking at the previous history my car has done about 1200 miles each year consistently for at least the five years.
Nick
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Post by Penguin45 on Aug 29, 2014 18:03:59 GMT
Well done.
That picture - it's the mad Pollies at Adel Hand Car Wash, isn't it? I took mine in there some years ago and they all had their photo taken with it!
Chris.
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Post by Nick RS on Aug 29, 2014 19:10:09 GMT
Absolutely correct, and the Lawnswood Arms pub chimneys in the background. I spent a couple of hours there and the 'mad Pollies' were really interested in the car and were so kind when they took pity on me and gave me coffee and let me use their facilities. I'll get the Freelander washed there next time I pass if they're open.
Nick
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Post by dave1800 on Aug 30, 2014 1:02:48 GMT
Excellent news, well done. A question for you as our "legal" expert about the abolition of tax discs from 1st October. If, after 1st October, you buy a classic car that is currently tax exempt how would you go about registering and transferring ownership before driving it away? I understand how you do it by paying on-line for a vehicle where tax is paid but not found anything covering the classic exempt category. Regards David The annual rite of passage was successful today. One fresh MOT ticket into September 2015. Looking at the previous history my car has done about 1200 miles each year consistently for at least the five years. Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Aug 30, 2014 7:25:43 GMT
David, It all seems a bit unclear from a historic vehicles perspective. As far as I can work out the process should be the same as for a chargeable road fund licence except that no money changes hands. I'll do some digging and put up a post on the general section when I know more. Two things seem clear to me. The onus is on the buyer to make sure that the vehicle is taxed when they start using it, though my guess is that if you drive it on the day of the transfer it would still be taxed for that day. The other one is that the new buyer will have to pay for tax straight away but the seller only gets refunded for complete unexpired months. No guessing where the unused portion goes. Buying a vehicle is not made any easier by this.
As an aside, the press here reckon the last tax discs will become collectors items. Given the number of vehicles on our road I wouldn't bank on that one.
Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Mar 9, 2015 22:01:50 GMT
Another day, another flat battery - aaaaaarrgh.
The current drain is back. I've traced it via the modern fusebox panel to the dreaded water pump. With no wiring diagram apart from an internet installation sheet I'll be playing hunt the connectors and seeing if a bit of scraping and cleaning sorts it. I really hope it isn't the pump or the controller as they are quite expensive. I'm not really up to putting everything back to normal at the moment either so this set-up will have to stay for now. Why can't it ever just be the courtesy light for once?
hey-ho, onwards and upwards.
Nick
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Post by Penguin45 on Mar 10, 2015 0:29:02 GMT
If the ignition is off, all circuits bar the clock should be dead. The lights and interior lights will also be live if the switches are activated. Test meter on amps, pull the live off the battery and bridge the terminals - the level of draw should give you a pointer as to what is still live. MrsP's bus has had to have a new battery - cold weather and masses of electronics. Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Mar 10, 2015 9:14:03 GMT
I'm sure you've already climbed into the boot to make sure the light is going out. There is no reason I can think of why the water pump computer should have an always on live feed but it just could. When you check the drain by inserting an ammeter in series with the battery take a reading and leave it in place for ten minutes to see if the reading has fallen back as the water pump computer capacitors charge up. Also don't forget to try the reading with and without the alternator I see in your photos disconnected in case there is a leaky diode or similar. Good luck! David Another day, another flat battery - aaaaaarrgh. The current drain is back. I've traced it via the modern fusebox panel to the dreaded water pump. With no wiring diagram apart from an internet installation sheet I'll be playing hunt the connectors and seeing if a bit of scraping and cleaning sorts it. I really hope it isn't the pump or the controller as they are quite expensive. I'm not really up to putting everything back to normal at the moment either so this set-up will have to stay for now. Why can't it ever just be the courtesy light for once? hey-ho, onwards and upwards. Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Mar 10, 2015 12:40:44 GMT
The lamps were the first check as I was hoping for an easy fix. The drain is a steady 0.2amp and I followed a logical process of taking the fuses out one by one, firstly the standard ones in the AMP box on the bulkhead and then the extra ones inside the car. On removing the one marked water pump the meter dropped to zero. The Davies Craig pump continues to operate for two minutes after the ignition is switched off on a hot engine to prevent heat build up or something like that - my suspicion is that it is something to do with this that is causing the drain. Will have another good prod and poke tonight if time allows.
Nick
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Post by Nick RS on Mar 10, 2015 19:22:15 GMT
^ ^ Tonight.
Sorted. Cleaned and tightened a few connections and now the current drops away to zero after a few seconds. I can only test the battery for voltage which at the moment is holding at around 11.50v. I think a long winter of little activity and short runs on the occasional good day has probably put paid to it lasting much longer.
Nick
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Post by dave1800 on Mar 11, 2015 1:26:15 GMT
Yes, I think that 11.5 volts suggests the battery is about to give up. Worth a trickle charge to see if it can be saved. It should settle close to 12.6 V ideally. It may be self discharging internally. regards David ^ ^ Tonight. Sorted. Cleaned and tightened a few connections and now the current drops away to zero after a few seconds. I can only test the battery for voltage which at the moment is holding at around 11.50v. I think a long winter of little activity and short runs on the occasional good day has probably put paid to it lasting much longer. Nick
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Post by dave1800 on Apr 7, 2015 0:51:30 GMT
Nick, did you ever manage to find the answer to the process for changing the registration of ownership for vehicles exempt from paying toad tax on the basis of age in the UK?
Regards
David
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Post by Nick RS on Apr 7, 2015 9:52:39 GMT
David, sorry, I must have applied to this one in my imagination only The basic principle is that it is not possible to sell a vehicle, historic or otherwise and pass on a valid road fund licence. I don't think it puts barriers in the way of buying and selling cars though the buyer must take action quickly if they are to drive their new purchase on the roads. Here is the process as I see it. 1. Agree to buy the car and take it home. Exchange the paperwork with the seller on the day that you take the vehicle, make sure it has a valid MOT if it is to be driven and then re-taxed. The seller must give you the 'new keepers supplement' or V5C/2 which is a green slip torn from the second sheet of the registration document. There is an important number of this form that you will need later. 2. YOU drive home, the car is still taxed on that day. 2a. THEY send the rest of the registration document to the DVLA - by post. 3. You get home and then log on to www.gov.uk/vehicle-tax and follow the instructions to tax the car. It's here that you'll need the 12 digit code from the V5C/2 form. If you haven't got the internet then you should be able to present the V5C/2 at an appropriate post office on the same day if it's open or at least the next working day. If you can't get the vehicle retaxed on the same day then I wouldn't risk driving any more it until you are able to do it. 4. You're good to go. The reality of it is that since the DVLA won't receive the old V5 for a few days and then take a few more days to post it then they won't record the change in tax status for a while. However I don't advise testing the system by driving a potentially untaxed vehicle. I think you are OK on the day of exchange though. Who's to say you didn't do the paperwork at 11:59pm. If you don't get a registration document then you have a problem as you'll have to apply from scratch and that takes several weeks and I wouldn't count on the vehicle being taxed whatever a seller may say in those instances. Also, no MOT means you can't re-tax either unless it's exempt (eg pre 1960) so it would be sensible to declare SORN until you can get that sorted. Once all this is processed you should receive a new V5 registration document in your name while the seller will get a confirmation of the change of ownership along with a refund of any unused portion of the road fund licence measured in whole remaining months, which in the case of a 40 year old historic vehicle will be nothing. Nick
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