GLE220J - 1970 18/85.

[Penguin45]

Progress..... You'll get there.

Chris.

[Penguin45]

Looks like he's been busy:





To fit a standard sized radio, if I'm following the plot correctly. Apparently a dashboard remover and electrician's presence is required in the near future.

That'll be me then............

Chris.

[snoopy11]

That looks like a familiar desk.

I didn't want to ruin an original dash in the attempt to put a radio in or use an adjusting stick to knock back the heater pipe behind.
My solution was to use chris's old centre piece as a template to cut out the shape on a piece of mdf.
To build out the top for the radio an inch thick mdf plant was stuck on and the whole lot was then covered with a walnut laminate.
So the ash tray did not look to thin against the top I remade it with a thicker piece of mdf and laminated it.
The French polish was done by Dewers in nelson. They have done this sort of work on cars before and were very helpful.

[Nick RS]

I would never have guessed that started out as a pice of mdf, looks amazing.
I just managed to fit a DIN D size spindle radio cassette but it was a tight fit and I had to source a right angle DIN radio aerial cable in order to push the unit flush with the veneer panel.

Nick

[Penguin45]

Snoopy's been trying to get the dash out..........



Don't think we succeeded down the phone.

Chris.

[snoopy11]

After several months of prattling about I have finally got it in. 
If I ever have a stupid idea like trying to take the dash out again please will someone shoot me. 

Attachments:

[Penguin45]

Looks good!

Mark reports that he is unable to select gears. Think it's a cable shift if anyone has any thoughts.

Chris.

[tommydp]

Looks great!

I've usually managed to fit old Clarion radio/ cassette units to the crabs (Austin Morris), as they are less deep than others. (I like to keep it old fashioned, so no modern stuff here)

Problems selecting gears: air in hydraulics, leaking master or slave cylinder, worn release bearing, worn crank spigot bush, hydraulic lock in cables. Is master cylinder travel lost due to wear in pedal or pushrod hole, or the pin connecting pushrod to pedal? In my experience oblong holes in the master cylinder pushrod is quite usual, and the clutch actuating point is often very close to the floor, or rather carpet:-)

I suppose if the problem suddenly appeared and affects all gears, the cables can be ruled out. It will perhaps be easier to diagnose if we know: are all gears difficult, do they select easily when engine is not running.

My white one is sometimes difficult in all gears when starting from cold, but is very smooth after a little while.

I have no explanation for the following, and please just laugh, but I seriously mean that incorrect carb adjustment/ mixture and PCV valve issues, like condensed gunk trapped in the valve, could affect the smoothness of the gearchange dramatically.

Regards, T

[dave1800]

As you say we don't have enough information to be able to focus on the likely cause(s) but your list is pretty comprehensive. My experience of difficulty engaging gears was on a 1971 W 18/85 which turned out to be the crankshaft thrust washers completely worn out such that when you engaged the clutch the crankshaft moved forward - you could feel it by putting your hand on the crankshaft pulley. The previous owner had been teaching a family member to drive and I guess rode the clutch as everything nothing was sticking. I did get the car for a good price, but still a lot of work. An easy check but a pai to put right.


No need to laugh, the quality of the gear change is affected by the idle speed, the damper on the throttle return and would you believe ignition timing. Just try it altering the idle speed if you find it hard to believe. Modern cars' engine management systems typically retard the ignition during gear changes to aid smooth changes, especially automatics as it reduces the torque.

I've certainly experienced stiff gear changes in the cold of winter that improve after a mile or less.

David

Feb 15, 2014 23:24:36 GMT tommydp said:

Looks great!



My white one is sometimes difficult in all gears when starting from cold, but is very smooth after a little while.

I have no explanation for the following, and please just laugh, but I seriously mean that incorrect carb adjustment/ mixture and PCV valve issues, like condensed gunk trapped in the valve, could affect the smoothness of the gearchange dramatically.

Regards, T

[snoopy11]

The gear selection problem is a bit strange.
With the engine off it goes through all the gears without a problem.
Start the engine and it won't select. The change seems to work as you can make the gears crunch. It's as if something on the clutch mechanism isn't working.
There was no issues when I parked it up before winter.

[dave1800]

First thing to check out are the clutch hydraulics. Get someone to operate the clutch while you check the clutch slave cylinder moves the arm fully. Hold the pedal down and make sure the pressure is holding and that the slave cylinder push rod isn't moving back. Then start the engine and try pumping the clutch pedal up and down rapidly half a dozen times then see if the gears can be selected. If so then you will need to bleed the system and find out where the air is leaking, check for leaks at the slave cylinder and inside the master cylinder inside the car see if the push rod is damp. Check the flexible pipe section on the slave cylinder to make sure it's not gone soft and "balooning" even a little.

If it's not hydraulics it could be a bit of corrosion on the clutch plate or shaft in which your options are to try and remove it by driving the car if possible, certainly at least warm it up thoroughly first. Second option wait for some ideas on this forum first!

Maybe someone here can measure the expected throw on the clutch cylinder pushrod?

Regards

David

[tommydp]

If the clutch pedal feels like before, I'd say the clutch plate has stuck to the flywheel.

Raise front of car, make sure the handbrake is on. Start the car in 2nd gear so the wheels spin. Press the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it there, rev the engine, hit the brakes hard, BANG- it should free up.

Tommy

[snoopy11]

Feb 16, 2014 10:01:21 GMT tommydp said:

If the clutch pedal feels like before, I'd say the clutch plate has stuck to the flywheel.

Raise front of car, make sure the handbrake is on. Start the car in 2nd gear so the wheels spin. Press the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it there, rev the engine, hit the brakes hard, BANG- it should free up.

Tommy

This seems likely as there was nothing wrong before.
When I start it do I start it in gear.

[Penguin45]

Yup - front wheels off the ground - accelerate and brake together once it's warmed up a bit.

Chris.

[charlypm]

So I've had a similar problem and can not make reason of it. Sometimes if the car is cold, I have trouble changing gears and the clutch drags when I'm stopped, no big deal, thick oil!
Sometimes the car can be warmed up and I when start from a stop, I get the same problem and can't get it in gear. if I turn of the motor momentarily, I can put it in gear, then I turn the key back on and away I go. I've noticed this is engine speed related, because if the car is idling high, it won't go into gear. Sometimes I blip the throttle, the idle drops and it slides into gear. Sometimes it won't do the rest of the day, sometimes it does the next time I stop, no rhyme or reason?
I've always thought this was something in the drive train between the clutch and the gearbox dragging, but I think I'm wrong with that. I was thinking it was something like the idler in the 1100 motor, but I don't think the 1800 has the same system.
I too, am very interested in what the problem is.