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Post by kimberly on Nov 27, 2015 7:05:34 GMT
So here is my 1971 Austin Kimberly. Relatively rust free, few spots under the bonnet and rear wheel arches. The car hasn't been registered since 1984, so having a look at all the mechanical parts to start with, pulling everything apart bit by bit, staring with the carburettor and brakes. the car runs, but very poorly, could be lack of exhaust (rusted through) and timing, or the engine could be cactus.. Putting a rebuild kit through the carbi, give it a tune, put an exhaust on it and see how it runs. Doing the same with the brakes. Sending the discs and drums off to get machined next week, buy new rear shoes and putting a kit through the front calipers. Once it's running, I'll take it for a drive to get the suspension checked out and pumped up. Did a bit of a google and found a guy not far away that used to own a Austin, Morris and MG car wreckers, who still has a lot of new and second hand parts, so he has become very helpful. Found this lovely little hole in the lower thermostat housing. brand new one is costing around $100
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Post by Penguin45 on Nov 27, 2015 16:51:52 GMT
"Relatively rust free" - you can go off some people! Nah - it's good. Nobody (except for Bullyboy and myself) wants to be welding for ever.
Odd hole in the stat housing. I presume there was no antifreeze in the system?
Chris.
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Post by dave1800 on Nov 28, 2015 4:31:27 GMT
Nice pics thanks for posting. If it has been run without antifreeze (you probably call it coolant in Oz?) as Chris suspects the head gasket may not be too good. Worth checking the compression on the engine as a first simple test. Any sign of water in oil or the reverse?
regards
David
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Post by indianajones on Nov 28, 2015 23:33:11 GMT
Lovely looking car, I quite like the colour, I look forward to seeing how she comes along -Andrew
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Post by kimberly on Nov 30, 2015 6:30:57 GMT
Have had a pretty decent look over and under the car. only rust I can really see (so far) is in the engine bay behind the motor. Mostly all surface which is good to see. No antifreeze/coolant or water in the engine at all! Noticed pretty quickly while the car was running and it started to heat up FAR to quickly. A good sign head gaskets gone there..
Carbi has been pulled down. Will need to order a few parts. Had a bent needle jet when pulled out, so ordered a new one ($20) hopefully the right one comes! Still! waiting on the carbi kit to arrive so I can start putting things back together.
Bought a caliper kit for the front brakes which is supposed to arrive in a day or two. Unfortuently though, a bleed nipple snapped off while we where bleeding the brakes last week, so will need to source a new one also. Shouldn't be to hard to find something that will adapt though!
Once the car stops, starts and drives nicely, I'll take it to get the exhaust done and see how the engine goes. Iv also just purchased a compression tester from ebay, so when that eventually arrives I can check the engine for compression rather then just hoping for the best!
Looking into the future a little. Exhaust. Have people been purchasing or making extractors? I did find a website somewhere, but was definitely a overseas website. Was going to cost me around $1000AUD just for the item itself! Can anybody recommend any where I should look or brands to search for? and what size exhaust is the norm? How are the breaks once running? While I'm tinkering around with the breaks, is it worth upgrading to anything bigger or trying a rear disc conversion?
Thanks, Matt
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Post by indianajones on Nov 30, 2015 7:45:48 GMT
Hi Matt,
I can't recall the exact diameter of my exhaust, but I believe it's around an inch and a half.
As for the brakes, I wouldn't worry about converting the rear brakes to drums, unless you're intending to put in a more powerful engine and/or race the car. The standard brakes on the 1800 crab do the job nicely, in my opinion, but of course this may not be the case with the 2200 crab or Kimberly. I'm sure someone with some experience with these cars can advise.
But it sounds like you're onto it with the brakes, giving them an overhaul (new seals, pistons etc - seeing as the car hasn't been on the road for over 30 years!).
-Andrew
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Post by peppib on Nov 30, 2015 8:18:36 GMT
Local garage fabricated an exhaust for mine last year - using Vauxhall Nova silencer. Seems to work fine, and it cost me £90 instead of £300 (I think it was, not sure) for a landcrab one
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Post by dave1800 on Nov 30, 2015 8:35:25 GMT
Don't worry about rear discs. They spent ages reducing the rear braking power designing various G valves to prevent rear wheels from locking. About 63% of the crab weight is on the front wheels when static much more under braking. The Kimberley may be less nose heavy but as Andrew notes get those calipers sorted!
Regards
David
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Post by andrewa on Nov 30, 2015 9:41:13 GMT
What a great car! As per above - I would have thought any half decent exhaust place would make one up - I've even seen Mini ones work successfully with a bit of lengthening. Brakes are good as they are - if you really want to muck about you could stick the callipers off an 1800S on it and some harder pads but they're not necessary IMHO - I'd just keep it standard (ish!!). Or you could go and see this guy if you're that way inclined - I'm sure he'd get you flying www.hi-flow.com/default.htm Cheers Andrew
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Post by dave1800 on Dec 2, 2015 2:39:15 GMT
I have been reading up a bit about the Kimberley / Tasman since the first post and it looks as though the front discs are actually even slightly larger than those on the UK 1800S / 6 cylinder models. No idea whether the (I assume) PBR calipers are as good as the 3 pot Girling used on the 1800S and 2200cc models but as others have commented brakes on all the models are excellent if in good order.
Regards
David
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Post by kimberly on Dec 13, 2015 11:54:44 GMT
Thanks for all there replies.
New lower thermostat housing eventually arrived, unfortunately the water temp sensor hole is a lot smaller then the standard, so I'll have to source a new one.
Front half of the brakes are done. We spent a long day (8hrs) trying to remove the pistons from the calipers without any form machining or compressors.. Used a lot of brake fluid though.. Pulled the rears apart and all looks perfect. Will give everything a good clean and put it all back together.
Played around with the gearbox linkages, as I couldnt select 1st or 3rd. After a bit of force and fluid, we eventually got everything moving again.
I ordered a reco carbi kit a few weeks ago which took around two weeks to arrive.. Ordered a new jet needle, only to get sent the wrong jet. So waiting around for the right parts to put the carbi together again. Should be up and running again by late this week. New thermostat, dizzy cap, rotor button, leads, points, spark plugs all sitting waiting to go in.
Next on the list is exhaust and suspension. Let's see how that all pans out.
Thanks. Matt
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Post by Penguin45 on Dec 13, 2015 13:10:52 GMT
Sounds like good progress. Can the boss for the temperature sender not be drilled and re-tapped? Might be cheaper than buying a new one. Blasted the pots out of the red cars brakes with compressed air. Hugely satisfying bang as each one let go. It is a complete pain when the wrong bits turn up. Chris.
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Post by kimberly on Apr 18, 2016 11:28:11 GMT
Little while since last post Rebuilt a few things Carbi Front calipers Rear cylinders Had the exhaust fixed Bought new tyres Cars now off at the mechanics to be finished off Tune Pressurise brakes Fix gear box leak Fit tyres I'm searching for rear tail lights. Unsure if there's the same style in the UK? But they are practically impossible to find any new/decent ones here in Aus! Any Aus members have any contacts for new old stock? Or someone I can send mine to, to get repainted?
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Post by Penguin45 on Apr 18, 2016 14:15:31 GMT
Hi Matt. I was wondering where you'd got to. Sounds like good progress so far. I don't recognise the tail light as fitting UK BL cars. I think you can buy tinting paints for painting lamps orange or red to go behind clear lenses - would that do it? Or use the coloured lamps themselves? Chris.
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