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Post by tony on Sept 4, 2014 3:51:08 GMT
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Post by tony on Sept 4, 2014 3:53:43 GMT
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Post by tony on Sept 4, 2014 3:56:31 GMT
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 4, 2014 3:57:26 GMT
Your father's skills and ingenuity continue to amaze me. He must be the best teacher you could ever have. I could have done with him years back when two of the water pump bolts on my Saab 900 fractured and I was faced with trying to remove the broken bolts but couldn't as there was no room to move the pump backwards towards the firewall with the broken bolts in place. I managed it eventually but not without a lot of anguish and bleeding knuckles.
I see the reliable electronic ignition failed because of an internal distributor fault courtesy of Lucas I guess, but it is quite old.
Thanks again for posting the excellent photos.
I have no advice to offer on the RR fuel distributor hot starting other than to question whether the modern fuel is vapourising and maybe the system needs more thermal insulation. The Indian Ambassador when it used the B series engine used to have problems starting when hot; something not experienced in the cool UK climate.
It maybe worth checking the spec of the temperature sensor which could lead to over rich mixture, but I'm sure you are well ahead of me on this, I feel embarrassed trying to offer advice!
regards
David
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Post by tony on Sept 4, 2014 3:59:38 GMT
 Finished the body repair. |
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Post by tony on Sept 4, 2014 4:02:22 GMT
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Post by tony on Sept 4, 2014 4:05:27 GMT
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Post by tony on Sept 4, 2014 4:17:28 GMT
old pictures Morris, father and his friend.  RRs, father and his first grandson at Hanwell, London in 1996.  |
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Post by dave1800 on Sept 6, 2014 7:56:26 GMT
Hi Tony I'm not sure how much you are into the modern electronics or whether you are your father focus more on the older vehicles. Apologies if you have mentioned this before and I have missed it. I find there are some really interesting videos on Youtube that you may find interesting if you have not already found them. For electronic diagnosis there are some excellent videos from "Scannerdanner" both his classroom lectures and practical hand on repairs, warts and all. I purchased his on-line book as well after watching his videos. He manages to get the right balance (for me) between not being too simple or too complex and there are lots of tips to avoid damaging or unnecessarily replacing costly electronic components. There are dozens of free videos and some that you pay for. Unfortunately the latter aren't available yet in Thailand, I'm not sure about Taiwan. ScannerdannerFor mechanical videos, John Twist has some handy tips on the MGB engine etc that are relevant to the Landcrab of course; John Twist and I also find Youtube quite handy for generic issues, as long as you are carefeful. regards David David I still keep reading automotive books to improve my basic knowledge, most of them in English. Many thanks. Regards Tony |
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Post by cptkennykidna on Sept 6, 2014 10:06:11 GMT
the part that is shown for the distributor is a standard pigtail used on 25d4 distributor, mini- jaguar-etc etc etc. I rebuilt the transmission on a friends series 1 jag and surprised him many times with bits of 1800 parts, the timing chain tensioner is the same too.
the jaguar auto box is very easy to recon, but is still an engine out job.
in australia the 29d6 distributor uses the same distributor cap as its contemporary G.M.holden products, that's the Holden and it is made by Bosch,it is likely it will fit on U.K. e series sixes but don't quote me.
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Post by tony on Sept 6, 2014 13:02:26 GMT
David Thank you so much for your suggestions. I've already known Paul Danner ( Scannerdanner ) and bought the e-book from him, too. He is the best of the best who tells me how to be a good mechanic ( British )/technician ( American ), not to be a part changer. Father requires the same goal, too. With his permission, I printed them out to be a paper book ( I could print out two papers at a time, managed finally to print them out all), which allows me to read freely any time offline. I got it 2 years ago. And it has helped me a lot when dealing with circuits. I always watch his free videos on Youtube and have heard of the paid videos open to TAIWAN. So at our garage I'm the one who knows about diagnosing circuit to help father to deal with modern vehicle. I joined a RR forum where it provides a lot of information such as service manuals. And someone sent me a lot of information so that I can read it offline. With the information, we replaced the 4 engine mounting supports ( the mounting support were created new here, not by ours ) and so on... In spite of that, I would hate to pull the RR's engine up (it's been overheated slightly twice so far --- amazing it's still strong enough to work. I must say that as I have been none modern British vehicle such as RR, Jaguar and Morris, which met the same situation and work fine.) it's too heavy and we don't have enough staff to do it. I did remove a head once on a older V8 engine RR, which has much room to do so. In fact, without the information father still can work on none modern RR engine and AT. He is so brave. That is the way he is. About me, I need information to figure out. About the RR we have been working on with a long hot start, we did check each part of fuel delivery system according to the fuel diagram. We also checked the ETC , cold start injector, all fine. We checked the fuel pressure according to the spec. We went to the distributor. We disassembled and assembled the fuel distributor more than four time with two repair diaphragms father created and O rings and two new repair kits bought from US. At the first two, it worked fine for a couple of days and then stumbled with rough idle --- some wet spark plugs, the last two, it became working fine. But the car owner is not happy with that. So father got a Benz part to replace it in order to proof he was right. Father is right this time. Here is the link below. rrtechnical.info/I've done the reading on AA1CAR. I finished it many years ago before I knew Paul Danner. The AA1CAR gave the theories and I was unable to apple them all while having a problem. You know that reading is one thing and diagnosing is another thing. But I have to say AA1CAR gave me to the opportunity to know more about mechanical vehicles. www.aa1car.com/What I still keep reading is I just want to take it in more deeply with 15 years working experience I have now. This can make me go on the right direction. David, thank you for the information and videos, again. Respect Tony Hi Tony I'm not sure how much you are into the modern electronics or whether you are your father focus more on the older vehicles. Apologies if you have mentioned this before and I have missed it. I find there are some really interesting videos on Youtube that you may find interesting if you have not already found them. For electronic diagnosis there are some excellent videos from "Scannerdanner" both his classroom lectures and practical hand on repairs, warts and all. I purchased his on-line book as well after watching his videos. He manages to get the right balance (for me) between not being too simple or too complex and there are lots of tips to avoid damaging or unnecessarily replacing costly electronic components. There are dozens of free videos and some that you pay for. Unfortunately the latter aren't available yet in Thailand, I'm not sure about Taiwan. ScannerdannerFor mechanical videos, John Twist has some handy tips on the MGB engine etc that are relevant to the Landcrab of course; John Twist and I also find Youtube quite handy for generic issues, as long as you are carefeful. regards David David I still keep reading automotive books to improve my basic knowledge, most of them in English. Many thanks. Regards Tony |
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Post by tony on Oct 4, 2014 3:47:36 GMT
 The left rear suspension arm was much loose and we found the problem (red circled). This problem will reduce the gap between the rear tyre and body.  This is the part diagram I found by myself and it that says I need to replace the bearings --- rear radius arm bearing assembly. I also contacted Tony and he told me the price for the parts. ![]()  Father wanted to make sure and safe to start the job ---- depressurizing the hydrolastic system and removing the arm. As the vehicle was already lifted up much high and we didn't want to remove fuel tank and the hydrolastic unit. We had to use a 5th support in order to make more room to remove the arm and released the left rear lifting joint. We also got another lift to support the arm with rear braking system. |
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Post by tony on Oct 4, 2014 3:53:31 GMT
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Post by tony on Oct 4, 2014 4:07:54 GMT
 No 4 -- Taper bearing with seal.  No 5 -- Slipflex 'DX' bearing and rubber. After the removal, I realized that I was wrong to find the part diagram isn't for our Morris. So I went to look at the service manual again. I found there probably are two rear system designs. Our system uses Slipflex DX bearing an rubber, not Taper bearing with seal. We hadn't done this job before and I had thought that there would be only taper bearing worn out and we could find the suitable parts here. |
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Post by tony on Oct 4, 2014 6:14:52 GMT
  We removed the worn out part --- called Slipflex DX bearing and rubber. This was different from my first thought. Father used teflon to create our own parts. 22, August, 2017 added below : The detail above is the rear left side. The rear right side was done in July or August, 2017. I will add the information in the future.
  This is parts for Golf MK 3 --- rear alex bushes created by POWERFLEX, a UK company.  New bush installed. |
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